First go into your AVR or Audio Video receiver. Go to the setup menu and ensure all speakers are enabled and properly assigned for the channels they are supposed to be reproducing (ie. center, left/right surrounds, etc). Some receivers have an option for Speaker A or B for the front channels. Make sure you make the proper selection as to what you have connected.
Check the Surround Mode in your AVR
If you’re playing a two-channel CD, don’t expect more than just your front two channels to operate unless you engage a post processing option such as Dolby Pro Logic IIx Music/Movie or DTS Neo, Seven-Channel Stereo, etc. Unless the source is encoded in discrete 5.1 or 7.1, your system will not playback the program material through your surround speakers unless you engage a post processing mode.
Check your speaker cables
Check your cables to make sure they are all properly connected to your speakers and your amplifier/receiver. More often than not, a cable comes loose over time when it gets bumped by the cleaners, the cat, or just moving stuff around in general. This is also a good opportunity to clean off the terminations with a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol or if you’re running bare wire to re-cut your leads if they have excessively corroded (turned green). Verify the polarity of your cables on the amplifier side and the speaker side for each connection to ensure the (+) on one end is going to the (-) on the other and vice versa.
Check your interconnects
If you’re running external amplification from your receiver or using separates, make sure all of the interconnects between both devices are solidly connected. Advanced users may also wish to check each interconnect individually with a multimeter to ensure they are not defective. Next check all of the cables between your sources (ie. DVD player, Cable box, etc) and your receiver / preamp in a similar fashion.
Check your levels
Next, check your levels using an SPL meter. If you still don’t hear the problematic channel produce test tones when you select it, then it’s likely either a blown speaker or blown amplifier channel.
If all else fails
Try connecting the problematic speaker to another channel and verifying it works correctly. If it does, you'll hear sound when it moves to another working channel. If it doesn’t, then the speaker is either damaged or blown out.
Problem: One or more of my speakers isn’t working.
Here are some more common problems and solutions.
Shut down and restart the device. Try moving the device closer to the access point. If this solves the problem, you are having signal interference. It can be caused by many things, including leaded glass, metal-reinforced concrete walls and floors or simply too much distance between your computer and the access point. Check the firmware of the device. Make sure there are no updates that have been applied that are effecting the wifi signal.
Yellow indicates the importance of certain connections.
- Make sure the HDMI cable is securely connected between the HDMI "Out" port of the receiver and the HDMI input port of the TV.
- Make sure the TV is set to the proper input.
Below is a typical kind of set up you would see from us.
6. Have you added a new device recently? Try disconnecting it.
5. Check that all cords and cables are connected to the correct port.
4.Check that all cords and cables are connected tightly.
2. Is the equipment turned on?
When problems arise, we want to help you solve them in a timely manner. Below are some basic steps to help get you started.
Check your cables
Is the static dependent upon the source (DVD player, cable box, etc)? If so, check the interconnects between that source and your AVR. If the static is always persistent, check the interconnects between your AVR and multi channel power amplifier(s). If the static is persistent, check the speaker level connections between your amplifier/AVR and the problematic speakers.
Check your Preamp Couplers
Many of the older higher end AVR’s sported front channel preamp couplers. Overtime, the connectors that bypass this feature can oxidize or corrode which leads to a faulty connection. If your model has these, simply remove and replace them or jumper the connection with very short male to male RCA leads.
2. I cannot access the network from a particular device, but all other devices are working fine.
Sometimes your home network goes down. With some simple steps, we can get your network up and running.
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Check zone 2 or 3
You turn the receiver off after you're done using it but notice that it stays hot or zone 2 or 3 lights stay lit. If you have a receiver that has powered zones for outputs, they can remain on after the receiver has been shut off. This allows audio to be played with the main receiver off. You should be able to power down zone 2 or 3 from the remote or receiver itself.
Problem: My receiver is off, but still remains hot.
Problem: My bass is weak or non existent.
Power down all computers on the network. Unplug both the cable or dsl modem and router from their power source. Wait a few minutes. Plug in the modem and wait until the lights on the modem stop blinking. This could take up to a minute. When the cable or dsl modem lights are steady, plug the router back in. Again, wait until the lights stop blinking. Then power on each device on the network one at a time. This is known as power cycling your network and this can often restore connectivity.
Check that your subwoofer is powered on
Make sure that the power cable is plugged into the back of the subwoofer and that it's plugged into a power outlet. Check and see if the master power switch on the subwoofer is pressed to the on position.
Check your cables
Make sure you have a good solid line level connection (ie. RCA or balanced) between your AVR and your subwoofer. If you're using a wireless system. Make sure the link lights are solid green.
Check your levels
First go behind your sub and verify the master volume level hasn’t been moved. If the subwoofer level control is ok, check the subwoofer level in your AVR. Most users prefer boosting the sub woofer level a few dB higher than the rest of the channels. Don’t be afraid to do this, adjust to preference.
Check your bass management settings in your AVR
For most installations, you can achieve the best overall performance setting all of your speakers to “small” with a fixed global crossover of 80Hz. Make sure you defeat the Low Pass Filter (LPF) in your subwoofer or set it to its highest setting to avoid cascading effects with the LPF in your AVR.
You should also verify that the “Bass out” in your AVR is set to “subwoofer” or “both” else you may run into a scenario for two channel sources where there will be no subwoofer output at all.
[2CH setup] Verify the proper speaker distances in your AVR are set for all of your speakers, including the subwoofer. Improper setup here can lead to a substantial suckout at the crossover frequency between your main speakers and subwoofer(s) resulting in a thin sound or poor satellite to subwoofer integration.
It’s also important to note that some AVR’s have an independent bass management configuration for two-channel audio. If your AVR does in fact offer this option, make sure you properly configure it else you will have no subwoofer output when listening to two-channel sources such as CDs. In addition, if your AVR offers a “pure direct” mode, verify if your subwoofer is still active when you have that mode engaged. If it isn’t, and there is no way to enable it via the AVR set-up, don’t use this mode if you prefer simultaneous output of your subwoofer.
Check subwoofer(s) and listening seat positions
Have you moved the subwoofer(s) or furniture recently? If so, this could have an adverse affect on low frequency performance. Recalibrate levels, phase, etc accordingly. If you initially calibrated with an Auto-EQ and your room conditions have changed significantly since then you would be advised to re-run the setup again.
1. I cannot access my network or the internet from any device on the network.
Problem: I hear static coming from one or all of my speakers.